Introducing the 1969 Caravel
'S.S. Al Uminium'
The S.S. Al Uminium, a reimagined vintage 1969 Airstream Caravel, is nearing completion. “Al” has been totally redesigned and rebuilt primarily by the current owner. He is currently living a new life as a retro inspired camper in southern Ontario.
Al was purchased as a shell on frame in July 2023. In other words, completely empty and just a box on a plywood floor with wheels. He measures approximately 13 feet, 6 inches interior length. I describe it this way, and specifically for non-Airstreamers, as it is the usable space that counts. Several repairs had been made to the exterior skin and the interior body when I purchased him. An all new frame, coupler, jack post, plywood subfloor, belly pan and torsion axle had been installed. The original bumper had been salvaged and reattached. All the windows were intact and most were functioning. The outer skin had a few scratches and some dings but overall it displayed the badges, colouring and oxidation of more than fifty plus years on the road. And although the interior had received new ‘reflectix’ insulation, all of the interior ‘guts’ and parts, but with the skins reattached, were gone. Not even a window knob remained.
Then I bought him and took over the project.
Other than cleaning, scraping, priming and painting the interior and installing new flooring, most of the work on the airstream was completed in the first seven months of 2024. Not having a dedicated workshop or a sheltered place on our property, I built the cabinetry, shelves and tables in my tiny garage in small sections. I went back and forth to where Al was stored outside, approximately 5 kilometres away. Although frustrating and slow to build offsite, I had to test fit and usually adjust each piece for the curved profile. Once satisfied with the part, I painted it at home before permanently installing it in the trailer once the weather improved in the spring.
My plan was to rebuild the airstream with a 60’s vibe, making it just a bit funky and with an enlarged galley. I decided to employ period colours, add lots of chrome and keep it somewhat minimalist and spacious. There was no plan to copy the original layout or utilities. There was no plan for a 110 volt refrigerator and no microwave or television. This was definitely not a restoration project. Instead of a full toilet/bath, I elected for a space saving hide-away porta-potty. The kitchen plumbing would be made up of two removable 30 litre jugs, a small drinking water faucet, a basin made from a stainless steel mixing bowl, a two burner Dometic drop-in grill and a 12 volt electric cooler on a slide out. I did all the installation myself and built the cabinets one piece at a time, fitting and doing the final assembling on site.
Most of the woodwork was accomplished using stock 1x2 or 1x3 pine, some lengths ripped, and then faced with glued-on quarter inch ply. The cabinet doors were cut from half inch birch plywood. No fancy joinery but lots of good adhesive, corner blocks, metal furniture angles and various lengths of brad and pin nails. The wheel wells were checked for leaks, resealed, insulated and boxed in with half inch plywood. About half of the 12 volt interior wiring was in place from the previous owner, but all of the circuits needed to be tested and confirmed before adding switches and receptacles. A 30 amp converter was installed, allowing for onsite 110 volts to be converted to 12 volts. I put in three 110 volt receptacles on a single circuit (GFI protected) as well as five 12 volt circuits.
Several hundred rivets, mainly on the interior, were added to secure the interior skins, as well as trim pieces and a half dozen repair patches. The flooring is vinyl, planks that are simply floating (not the click type). The interior walls which were aluminum with fibreglass end caps had 3 colours of paint. After thoroughly washing and de-glossing, the walls were then primed with 'gripper' and then painted a neutral light grey.
From the outside Al stills looks very much like a ‘69 Caravel. From the inside, not so much. But still 60’s funky, very spacious and a whole lot of fun.
Following the gallery is a descriptive list of most of the build and just some of the numerous cosmetic additions.
Image Gallery
A few pictures of Al before and after reconstruction.
Before Pictures
Damage
The previous owner, after purchasing the airstream, had replaced two heavily damaged panels and had decided to replace the frame.
Repairs
The trailer received a new professionally built trailer frame, plywood subfloor, torsion axle and 'reflectix' insulation.
At Purchase
I purchased Al ready to tow with much of the heavy work completed.
Exterior Fixes and Improvements
Some of the Major fixes made to Al
1. Side Rail and Custom Awning.
The awning from many years ago had been torn away
just leaving the stuck plastic rope and bits of fabric. It
took awhile using a utility knife and needle nose pliers
to remove all the pieces. I cleaned out the keder track
using soapy water and a small bottle brush bent to fit
into the track. Once clean and dry, the track was sprayed
with a dry lubricant used on table saws. The new awning
slid in like a charm. It is held up using 3 poles and home
made guy ropes. Old school solution. The holes in the side
wall from the former awning support posts were filled with
pop rivets and sealed in place. A simple and effective repair.
2. Rear Rail and Awning.
I added a new length of awning rail over the rear window
as there wasn’t one there. The rods and stainless supports
are bimini hardware from a local marine supply shop. Butyl
putty was used wherever the shell was penetrated. The
awnings were custom made locally from ‘sunbrella’ fabric.
3. Roof Pipe Exhaust Cap.
I wrapped the short length of protruding pipe
(non-functioning) with a flexible exterior tape and
then slid the aluminum cap over top. It was a very snug fit.
Purchased the cap from VTS.
4. Tongue Platform with Storage Box.
The locking aluminum storage box holds a few camp tools,
two Renogy batteries, a main fuse and master cutoff switch.
The 11 lb propane tank sits off to the side and is plumbed
directly to the stove. The base of the tank fits snuggly into
a hole in the blue board and is secured to the side of the
box using extra long hose clamps. A length of chain helps
to deter an easy tank theft.
5. Door bumper and holdfast for front door.
This was simply a replacement of a broken and missing part.
There was considerable rust stain from the original hold fast
which was removed using ‘glymer paste’. The replacements
were attached using pop rivets. Both doors have received
new gaskets.
6. Window Drip Cap and Closures for Front Stone Guard.
The drip caps for the curb and road side windows were purchased
from VTS, stripped of their primers and attached per the website
instructions using butyl putty tape and SS screws. The stone guard
closure fasteners needed to be modified to accept the plexiglass
guard before installing.
7. Screen Door Grab Bar, Screen Protectors & Door Art.
The grab bar and upper protector are made from pine and
attached using stainless steel screws. I removed the original
pull knob that was attached to the inside and filled the hole
with a rivet. The lower protector was added just for fun and
besides, the owner loves bacon.
The 'door art' on the inside of the entry door is a work in
progress, displaying my evolving interest in murals.
8. Blue SN plate and Name plate refurb.
When the frame was completely rebuilt, prior to my
purchase, the plate with the serial number was lost. I
had this large plate from VTS engraved with the serial
(ID descriptor) number before attaching it to the screen door.
The Caravel name plate was heavily oxidized and pitted. It was lightly sanded
and masked off before touching up with paint and a clear coat laquer
9. License plate holder, rear view camera and rear hatch rebuild.
I removed the old license plate holder and attached a unit with a
built in back up camera. It is solar rechargeable and pairs wirelessly
with a dash mount monitor. No drilling and no wires to run. The rear
hatch has a new seal replacement. Inside the compartment there is a
new floor and a shelf to help organize outdoor equipment.
Interior Build
10. Double Bed.
The 50” bed was built to lie across the rear from wall to wall. It is a platform bed built mostly from 2X3 spruce and 1x4 strapping. Under the bed there is a small enclosed box accessible from the rear hatch. The remainder of the space under the bed is accessible from inside and is currently covered by a bungee net. The platform is topped with one inch high density foam and then with a 4” memory foam, both cut to fit the curve of the rear wall. The front and rear outer walls are covered with 'bumper pads' using outdoor chair cushions. So far, the bed is surprisingly comfortable.
11. Cabinets.
There are three lower sections, two with uppers. All were stick built, using 1x2 and 1x3 pine and faced on the ends with quarter inch ply. Melamine paint was used to give them a harder finish. Two of the cabinet doors use a custom twist lock which secures them while traveling. The others have spring loaded hinges. Although I have VTS closures, I use bungee cords while on the road. The front end cabinet doors over the front windows, although present, were rebuilt using new new plywood but with the existing hardware and then painted.
12. Windows and Window Coverings.
All of the windows needed to be prepped with painted or refurbished aluminum trim or new wood trim. Three of the windows use a roll up curtain, partly my design, using cotton table napkins, faux leather straps and locally sourced hardware. The two larger windows received cafe curtains. The curtains are made from extra large tea towels (2 towels per window) and are hung from badge clips on a cafe rod. Not darkening, but then I just need a bit of privacy in the evening. Total cost for all 5 window treatments approximately $150.
13. Electric Cooler.
The 12 volt cooler (with 110 option), fridge only, is very efficient and is a top loading model. It sits on a pull out drawer. Home built cabinetry. All hardware locally sourced from area hardware stores. The drawer is strapped closed during travel. I also carry a small
camping cooler (using ice) that is primarily for drinks.
14. Cafe Table and Chairs.
I built the table top with a folding extension from a single board and ordered the adjustable marine leg post from Amazon. The vinyl covered chairs from a recycle/thrift shop are very ‘retro’ and although orange in colour complete the 60’s look. The chairs are bungeed to the table post (in the down position) while travelling.
15. Interior Shelving.
The shelf under the front window is patterned after shelves of the decade. See picture above. Without a template it was a bit tricky to draw up at first. It is secured to the wall with a few metal supports and two wooden shelf brackets, custom cut on my bandsaw. Similar construction for the shelf over the foot of the bed, but with an aluminum support rod.
16. Sink & Water Pump.
The sink is a stainless mixing bowel with a hole cut to receive bar sink drain parts. Two 30 litre water jugs sit under the sink with one of them using a 12 volt pump. The tube in the potable tank has an aquarium sponge filter on the end of the tube to filter out any debris. The sink is for drinking water and rinsing fruit and vegetables. Dishes are washed outside as one would do when camping.
17. Gas Stove.
The gas stove is a 2 burner Dometic grill from VTS and is plumbed directly to the regulated propane tank as a single line run. There are no interior gas line connections.
18. 12 Volt Electrical System.
Two 100 amp-hour batteries wired in parallel provide the required electrical energy for the cooler, exhaust fan, several lights (some L.E.D.), the sink pump and USB ports. There is a main line fuse and shut off inside the battery box. The converter also serves as a distribution and fuse panel. The battery monitor sits inside the electrical compartment.
19. CO / LPG detector.
The detector is wired directly into the circuit coming from the batteries.
.
Upcoming Mods (All nearing completion)
20. Solar Panel.
A Renogy 200 watt suitcase style solar panel has been tested and is in use to recharge the batteries. A 2 pin external port was added to the tongue box to negate the need for battery clamps.
21. Electric Drum Brakes.
Electric brakes and with a break away cable have been installed. Although my pickup can handle the braking of the
camper, this addition is a great plus when travelling.
22. Custom Bumper Box
Although there may have originally been a bumper box,
I designed and attached a box to hang between the frame
extensions. The lid is secured using four inch 90 degree
angle clasps. More construction details for the box here.
23. Electric Tongue Jack.
Contact
Have a question or comment? I may be able to answer when I am not camping or working on the next modification.
Owen Sound, Ontario
Email: georgianwinds@gmail.com